Profiling | Sarah Angold
Sarah Angold Studios comprises of a multidisciplinary team of designers spanning arenas from fashion, product to even vehicles. For London Fashion Week, Sarah Angold also debuted her third jewelry range following the tremendous success of their previous two. Fascination with architecture and mathematical graduation dominates this collection, and is conveyed through the inventive use of laser cut acrylic, non-precious metals and industrial fastenings. ActuallyMAG has a chat with her about latest designs, as well as the rest of the studio.
Take us through your design process for this collection.
My design process begins with a carpet picnic of research photos, line drawings and boxes of materials. I sit on the floor and match up different shapes and textures that go on to inform my designs.
Where did you draw your inspiration for this collection?
For SS/2012 I’ve been looking at city architecture; the Paris’ skyline in particular, geometry and mathematical graduation. Materials and textures are a constant inspiration.
How do your collective experiences in fields such as interior and vehicle design help define your vision as a collective?
I have always felt that cross-disciplinary collaboration produces the most innovative results. It is exciting working with a team of people who have different skill sets and perspectives to offer. The industrial and mixed media elements of Sarah Angold Studio’s distinctive style are often informed by our work in other design sectors, and I think that our diversity is the key to our success as a brand.
Being a multidisciplinary design studio, why did you choose to focus on jewelry design?
I don’t try to create a certain thing – my creative process means that as I draw, photograph, manipulate and build, the pieces sort of develop by themselves and dictate what they will become. I have never set out to be a jewellery designer, but people kept saying that they wanted to wear the little models I contructed, so I made them wearable! It is the same with whatever I design.
Tell us a little more about your bespoke projects.
The studio works on a wide range of bespoke projects from graphic design to visual merchandising and gallery installation. Making oversized accessories for the London Selfridges windows was a fun one! The bespoke projects we undertake go on to inspire the wholesale ranges we have – this is how we work out what our next brand extensions will be.
Take us through your journey from starting out to showing your third collection at London Fashion Week.
Things have moved very quickly in the year since our first collection. We are getting good press attention now, which in turn leads to people contacting us with lots of new and interesting projects. We were really excited that our first collection was taken on by the Tate Modern Shop, and now we are in discussions with larger companies about diffusion lines, both for the jewellery and our new lighting range. Being on the runway with my collaboration with David Koma was a fantastic experience this season, and for next London Fashion Week I am taking over the Stamp Staircase at Somerset House to install a four-storey chandalier, which I think is going to be my biggest challenge yet!
What do you think is the most gratifying, and thankless aspects of design?
Gratifying: That people want to wear things I have designed. I still feel a little rush of excitement every time someone wants to buy a piece.
Thankless: The money (or lack of)!
Which designers have influenced you the most, or that you would love to collaborate with?
I was very lucky that my first collaboration after undergraduate graduation was with one of my design heroes, Hussein Chalayan. I love how he fuses technology and fashion so seamlessly. His moving pieces are beautiful, integral and surreal – you don’t get the feeling that the mechanics are just there for a good story. I also really admire Thomas Heatherwick. He produces amazing products and installations that I think are sculpturally exquisite.
What plans do you have for the future?
Developing and expanding my accessories collections to incorporate a wider range of materials, as well as a series of fashion prints based on my three dimensional designs. Sarah Angold Studio also just launched its first lighting range, so there’s lots going on!
– Zhou Yishu
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