Blueprint 2014 Runway Show | Review
As we set foot into the halls of Suntec City Convention Centre, the sight and smell of the vast array of all things fashion greeted us- It’s another new year and Blueprint continues to outdo itself.
Blueprint is an event that specializes in launching pre-spring collections and in curating fresh and forward menswear, womenswear and accessories from Asia’s finest emerging and established talents, as well as international brands intending to penetrate the Asian markets. The event was spread out over 4 days in which the first two days(otherwise known as Trade Days) were reserved for people of the trade, and the following two(otherwise known as Emporium) were for the general masses.
On Trade Day 2, we were fortunate enough to be given the opportunity to view first-hand the cruise collections of local designers come to live on the runway. The showcase, organised by TaFf and supported by IE Singapore, featured 3 brands namely Depression, Pauline.Ning and Ange Revolte. As if it wasn’t good enough, we had the pleasure to interview Pauline herself, as well as Andrew Loh and Kenny Lim of Depression.
The key to Pauline’s show was the contrasting mix of structure and draping. There was a great use of wool and silk in her collection, a glaring reflection of A/W. “The theme for this collection is interrupted. The whole idea is for different extreme elements to be put together. I want to break uniformity and combine androgyny with soft layering. I also want to make classic wardrobe pieces more contemporary,” said the designer as she was all smiles.
Her intentions were clearly brought forward as models strutted down the runway in boxy, oversized jackets together with pieces that highlighted the female silhouette. Wardrobe staples like the pencil skirt and cigarette trousers made their appearances in a subtle twist too. Pauline finished her show with an elegant all black ensemble- a lightweight, high-neckline sleeveless top with a silk panel running down the middle and a pair of silk palazzo pants.
What is the biggest accomplishment of yours so far in terms of your career?
P: I think it would have to be exporting my clothing overseas. There seems to be a greater appreciation of my designs abroad, which is definitely a great thing.
Are you planning to stock your clothing in the local market again?
P: Although the fashion industry is flourishing in this Singapore, my focus would be more on exports as there isn’t a great response to my line here after having been in the local market for years. I think it’s mainly because the masses don’t get the price points of the pieces.
Since Andrew and Kenny started their label in 2006, Depression’s clothing has been known for their dark, monochromatic edge. Their collection titled ‘Dark Nature’ is no different, except the apparent use of even less white and a ton more black. “Our collections are very personal; our everyday conversations and everything that’s going on around with our lives inspire us. Seeing as there’s an increasing amount of evil people around us, this whole collection was mainly inspired by the evil of human nature. We also incorporated elements of nature to emphasise this whole idea of nature,” said the amiable dynamic duo.
Sticking with their reputation for deconstruction and a clinical aesthetic, all apparel seen on the models were mainly of black colour, structured, drapey, folded and wrapped. What stood out was the use of beetles and flowers to accent the all-black pieces, highlighting their point of elements of nature, as well as the unnoticeable difference between the opposite genders. The same white bandana layered under a black mountain hat was seen throughout the show, as well as the well-loved platforms.
How would you define the style Depression exemplifies?
K: We see fashion as art. We don’t go traditional, instead, we create whatever we feel. People label us as edgy and androgynous but that’s okay. In the end, all is but fabric so it doesn’t really matter. We just want to create clothing that both men and women can put on.
We’re very interested to know who are your personal favourite designers.
A: Rick Owens
K: Gareth Pugh
We all know Depression is all about black and white. Would you ever consider the usage of colours in your clothing?
A: Depression started out with the signature monochrome but we’re starting to centre the label on just black and black itself. There may be subtle hints of metallics here and there but our ultimate focus is still going to be black. We do however have a sub-line, Antidepressant, which is on complete opposite from our first line. This second line is sort of a therapy for us from Depression hence the use of bright, bold colours.
Text by: Gilda Lim
Images by: Eugene Siow
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